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Tea supplied by Sudan civil conflict survivors : NPR


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Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly sequence by which NPR’s worldwide crew shares moments from their lives and work around the globe.

In April, I visited the Sudanese capital, Khartoum, a number of months after it was recaptured by the Sudanese military. After greater than two years of civil conflict, the size of obliteration was completely tragic. Considered one of Africa’s most vibrant cities — which I would first visited in 2020 — had turn into a shell of itself.

Most of Khartoum was eerily empty. However a number of folks remained. Some had survived a brutal occupation by the paramilitary group at conflict with the military. Others — amongst greater than 6 million folks displaced from Khartoum — have been simply starting to return.

For about 5 days, my Sudanese colleagues — journalist Ammar Awad and photographer Faiz Abubakr — and I met as many Khartoum residents as we might. Some had been tortured, or misplaced relations, or belongings. They welcomed us into their houses on the breaking point, in buildings hammered by artillery and gunfire.

We have been always confronted with a sort of cussed, irrepressible hospitality. Every of those interviews usually started with them providing Sudanese espresso or tea, the espresso typically black and dense, the tea black or mahogany-red, generally with cinnamon leaves. 

Glass after glass, interview after interview. After two or three — my preferrred most for a day — this deluge of tea and low turned testing.

Generally my well mannered refusal was sufficient. Different occasions, it was swatted away with the arrival of one more tray — one other set of glasses and a bowl of sugar, generally served with dates and water.

After a number of days, I began to take footage of this gently relentless ritual of kindness — supplied by folks lucky to outlive the conflict with sufficient to maintain themselves, and by others left with nearly nothing.

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