BBC Information, Delhi
ReutersItalian luxurious vogue label Prada has mentioned it acknowledges the Indian roots of its new footwear line, days after the design sparked an argument in India.
The sandals, showcased on the Milan Trend Week final week, had an open-toe braided sample that intently resembled the normal Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Prada described the sandals as “leather-based footwear” however didn’t point out its Indian origins, prompting backlash and allegations of cultural appropriation in India.
Responding to the controversy, Prada informed the BBC in a press release that it recognises that the sandals are impressed by conventional Indian footwear.
A Prada spokesperson mentioned that the corporate has “all the time celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions”, including that it was “involved with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Business & Agriculture on this matter”. It is a distinguished business commerce physique within the state.
Final week, its chief had written to the model, saying the design was commercialised with out crediting the artisans who’ve preserved its heritage for generations.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Company Social Accountability, responded to his letter saying that the sandals had been “at an early stage of design”, in accordance with Reuters.
He additionally mentioned that Prada was open to a “dialogue for significant change with native Indian artisans” and the corporate would organise follow-up conferences to debate this additional.
Named after a metropolis in Maharashtra the place they’re made, Kolhapuri sandals hint their roots again to the twelfth Century.
Created from leather-based and typically dyed in pure colors, the normal handcrafted sandals are sturdy and well-suited to India’s sizzling local weather.
They had been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) standing by the Indian authorities in 2019.
In accordance with the World Commerce Organisation, a geographical indication tag credit a very good or product as having originated from a sure area or place, and is taken into account a mark of authenticity.
Nitin Nagarkar/BBCFollowing the controversy, many artisans in Kolhapur mentioned they had been saddened by Prada’s use of the design with out giving due credit score.
“These sandals are made with the arduous work of leather-based employees in Kolhapur. They need to be named after Kolhapur. Do not benefit from others’ labour,” Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, informed BBC Marathi.
The sandals price a couple of a whole bunch rupees in India however Prada’s reported premium pricing angered some, although the model’s web site doesn’t point out the value tag. Most different sandals bought by the style home, retail at between £600 to £1,000 within the UK.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka highlighted this, saying the native artisans barely make any cash for a similar hand-made merchandise. “They lose, whereas international manufacturers money in on our tradition,” he mentioned.
This isn’t the primary time that international manufacturers have been accused to appropriating Indian conventional merchandise with out crediting their roots.
On the 2025 Cannes Movie Competition, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a robe, sparking backlash.
Earlier in Might, a preferred TikTok pattern was criticised for calling dupatta, a conventional South Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf.
In Kolhapur, nonetheless, some mentioned the transfer had instilled a way of satisfaction in them.
“Artisans are blissful that somebody is recognising their work,” Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep Extra informed Reuters.
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